Difficulty of Do-It-Yourself Bathtub Refinishing

So, to that end, I will discuss the good, and the not-so-good of do-it-yourself bathtub refinishing, as opposed to having it done professionally.

Do-It-Yourself Bathtub Refinishing Kits

* In my humble opinion, there's not many points in favor of DIY bathtub refinishing, to be honest with you. The only two that stand out are the cheap cost of DIY kits, and the fact that you can work at your own convenience.

So, there you have it.

And now, the Not-So-Good of DIY:

* In order to prepare the surface correctly, it should be totally clean of all dirt, soap scum, caulk, calcium deposits, and all other things grungy. The reason I listed this as a con is because of the fact that it takes time and patience to really clean something of this nature properly.

(this first step alone should turn most people off to DIY. Using harsh cleaning chemicals, tools and scrubbers would probably seal the deal!)

* The use of harsh chemicals (such as Hydroflouric Acid compounds), fast-drying fiberglass body filler, various solvents and industrial-strength cleaning agents, and application of the Polyurethane topcoats and primers, provide a formidable opponent when the do-it-yourselfer is new to the game.

* As stated above, the presence of so many chemicals and cleaners would deter even the most hardened handyman.

If you were to tackle bathtub refinishing yourself, you would need to wear an appropriate breathing apparatus (full face respirator) - one that would allow you to breathe comfortably, as well as be able to move around easily. You should also wear goggles, and rubber gloves.

Again, with so much protection on your body (and correctly so), do you really think you could do the job well enough? I don't think I could. (I tried bathtub refinishing once years ago - and failed miserably!)

* You should be able to mix (and spray) urethane primer according to manufacturer's recommendations.

* You should be able to correctly mix (and spray) the Polyurethane topcoats to supplier specs.

Again, these two items can be daunting for the aspiring bathtub refinishing do-it-yourselfer.

Speaking of aspiring bathtub refinishers, check out this disaster-in-waiting....

my story

Professional Bathtub Refinishing

I am usually a hard-headed do-it-yourselfer just like anyone else , but in this instance, I would highly recommend letting the pro's do this.

To get the job done right takes years of experience and know-how, not to mention the safety aspect of such an undertaking.

Let's say, for example, you just acquired an old, dingy-looking, claw-foot antique bathtub. You like to tackle projects yourself, but after much deliberation, you finally decide to get it professionally restored.

Yes, it will be more expensive, but in the long run you will be miles ahead with your newly restored antique bathtub. In terms of usability (no paint flaking off while taking a bath!), and appearance (your friends will think you spent a fortune at the antique store), the WOW factor will be very high.

So, if you must do something like this on your own, good luck! But if it turns out to be wrong, don't say I didn't warn you ....

Advice From a Refinishing Pro

"Caution Advice

Bathtub Refinishing or Reglazing is not a Do-it-Yourself project; it involves the use of strong, hazardous chemicals and materials that are beyond the skill and ability for most homeowners and untrained users. This information is provided only as a guide, not as an instructional tool to perform a specific job, service, etc.

Bathtub Refinishing Basics for Long Term Results(In Order of Importance)

CLEANING

It is an absolute priority to get that surface clean of all soap by scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner, ex. Ajax, Comet, etc., and a scrubber pad, plus razor blade for those stubborn brown soap deposits. A lot of times just doing this step correctly makes the tub look new again! remove all caulking from tub, specially silicone materials.

PROTECTION

Like I said before this process involves using harsh, industrial-use only chemicals, so Safety First.... is extremely important.

COVERING FLOORS

3-mil plastic sheathing on bathroom floor, covering two feet of bathtub perimeter, attached with duct tape on edges surrounding tub or fixtures being done. If surface above tub is dark glossy tile or mirror it must be covered with masking paper also.

VENTILATION

Room must be vented mechanically by the use of a window fan, if window available or an exhaust blower if no window this is an industry specific tool not available at home centers or general tool supply centers.

PERSONAL PROTECTION

Wearing a respirator is a must; a full-face respirator is ideal for this step for its splash protection feature or at least standard respirator and goggles and rubber gloves.

SURFACE PREPARATION

With ventilation system running and cleaning steps completed dry surface with towel.

Apply an etching solution containing Hydrofluoric Acid compounds; with a large natural bristle paintbrush or industrial sponge using extreme caution not to splash or spill any liquid on floor or surrounding areas, it will cause permanent damage to most surfaces. Also, do not allow acid to flow freely down drain. Room will have very strong acid smell but will be removed through vent system.Solution must remain on surface for at least 15 minutes to do its job of etching and preparing surface to accept a new coating, then catalyzed with baking soda powder to protect plumbing system.

Wash and rinse tub with clean, warm water several times you will have to use a scrubbing pad to remove residue and powder build up. Proceed to eliminate all water drips and moisture sources from tub area, cover shower head, tub spout with plastic bags to catch any later drips, if any signs of repairs are needed do these prior to refinish.

MORE SURFACE PREPARATION

Chips and damaged areas should follow the acid etching process, mix and fill a small batch of fiberglass body filler applying with plastic spreader, covering all chips and nicks, * tip: we prefer to find all such areas by inspecting the tub carefully then marking these with a pencil before mixing the filler. Filler dries fast! Cover drain with masking tape and trim around with razor blade. Sand and vacuum tub clean.

MORE ROOM PROTECTION

This material is going to be sprayed on if your going to get a professional job, so you must make sure the surrounding walls, cabinets and fixtures not being done get the protection they need, clear painter's plastic is the best choice, attached with masking tape. * Tip: blue low-tack tape is best for freshly painted walls; hang from the top at the ceiling, to the floor, and secured with tape on top of the floor plastic. Protect area over the tub with masking tape and 18" masking paper as well as plastic from top of wall at ceiling, down to this 18" paper, seal all around with solid strip of tape.

Ready to Refinish

Equipment Note

A professional HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray system and professional breathing apparatus is a necessity for these coatings, again these are strong odors and fumes that should be handled by trained and skilled painters only.

Solvent wash tub surface, air dry with spray system hose specially the drain area and use a Tack Cloth to finally remove dust.

Mix and spray urethane primer, according to manufacture's recommendations and recommended dry times.

Mix and spray Polyurathane topcoats, again to supplier specs.

These materials should cure and be ready for use anywhere from 24 to 48 hours under normal temperatures and job conditions.

As a final note, I cannot stress enough the discouragement of using do-it yourself materials for the above described process, either consider tub replacement or get a pro."

Regards,

Orlando

Written by Orlando P. Salazar

President

Bathtub Doctor, Inc.

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